C6 Rebuild Manual [EBook]

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Our payment security system encrypts your information during transmission. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Used: GoodPlease try again.Please try again.Please try your request again later. They remained in production deep into the 1980s, when overdrive-equipped transmissions finally eclipsed them. However, the C4 and C6 remain incredibly popular with enthusiasts, racers, and restorers alike due to their simplicity, strength, and low cost. Rebuilding either of these transmissions isn't overly difficult, but does require care, some specialized tools, and proper procedure to be followed closely. In How to Rebuild and Modify Ford C4 and C6 Automatic Transmissions, author George Reid walks readers through the process step-by-step, from removing the transmission from the vehicle, to complete disassembly and cleaning, to careful reassembly, to proper re-installation and road testing. In addition, if the transmission will be used in a high-performance or competition situation, the author includes the various steps required to bolster the unit's strength, using commonly available aftermarket components. Each chapter contains special notes, sidebars, and technical tips to assist the reader at every step in the process. Some refer to safety, others to time-saving advice, and others to small modifications that may aid long-term durability or help the builder tailor the shift firmness. The author's extensive research and experience with these popular transmissions has resulted in a well-rounded full-color technical guide to their revitalization. Then you can start reading Kindle books on your smartphone, tablet, or computer - no Kindle device required. Show details. Ships from and sold by Amazon.com. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. http://www.ice-group.pl/userfiles/cs400-echo-manual.xml

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Register a free business account These Ford transmissions can be torn apart and rebuilt in your home garage or workshop using common hand tools. Very few specialized tools are required. This book reviews the long production life of both the C4 and C6 transmissions, and includes the various production changes you need to be aware of while building yours. Of these two popular Ford automatic transmissions, the C4 encompassed the most changes ranging from input shaft and forward clutch size to main case revisions, which means you will want to arm yourself with detailed information in order to build the best C4 possible, with the best sources for parts and accessories for these classic automatics. Because the larger, heavy-duty C6 transmission is the most rugged and dependable 3-speed automatic transmission Ford has ever produced, you can build even more durability and efficiency into yours. If high performance is your goal, advice, tips, and tricks are included to strengthen and fine-tune the capabilities of both the C4 and C6.He enjoys restoring and building Fords. George has written a number of books for CarTech.If you are a seller for this product, would you like to suggest updates through seller support ? To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. Emmet 3.0 out of 5 stars It's a high-level overview. If you try and use this manual in your rebuild, you'll be frustrated and disappointed by the magnitude of instruction that's left out.At the very least with this book, I believe you will have an idea what may be wrong with your auto-trans when you take it to your mechanic, if you don't want to tackle things yourself. http://www.luijkzonwering.nl/image/cs4pi-user-manual.xml

If you have an older Ford product with one of these models, this book would be good insurance to have on-hand before you need it. Buy yourself a copy. It is worth it!It has distilled the most important aspects of the rebuild including torque specifications into one easy to read and follow book. It does fall short on some details like positioning the kick down lever. There are no pictures or description about how to make sure it is positioned correctly. It also, doesn't have an exploded view of the assembly. I used my shop manual in conjunction with this book to do the rebuild. As well as watching some YouTube videos. I would not rely on this book alone, but I am glad I purchased it.Not even a half way decent resource for variations in the C6 throughout its long production run. A real disappointmentI was hoping for more info about DIY mods and E4OD parts updates(interchange data for low gear set and fully rollerized pieces from late E4OD), but the book stuck to off the shelf, aftermarket parts. Lots of good pics of transmissions going together. Someone rebuilding a Ford automatic transmission would be well advised to consult brown shoe productions, for excellent website support. I rebuilt my C6 behind my diesel and it runs great. You can do it too!Great sections covering various factory valvebodies and intermediate servos; good for reference.Large glossy prints, easy to follow procedures, common sense directives and tips on modifications. I had worked on several C4's years ago, but needed something to guide me with a recent rebuild. Wish I would have had this book back then. I would recommend this to someone new to mechanics or to the experienced enthusiast.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Der Versand ging bei mir etwas langer, aber der Freundliche Lieferant hat gleich einen Ersatz gesendet, da das erste Exemplar auf dem Versandweg verschollen ist. Deshalb auch 5 SterneSorry, we failed to record your vote. http://gbb.global/blog/emco-compact-6-manual-0

Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Tout y est decrit, comment se rendre compte si telle ou telle piece est endommagee, et l'entretien moins pousse y figure egalement (notamment apprendre a re-regler les bandes d'embrayage, vidange, changer le filtre). Je ne me suis pas encore lance dans les gros travaux, mais en tout cas le bouquin est vraiment interessant et complet. ATTENTION, uniquement en Anglais !Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Habe noch nie ein Getriebe zerlegt oder Uberholt.Dies war mein erstes und es lauft super nur mit hilfe dieses Buches. Sehr Empfehlenswert !!!Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1 In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. You are not currently allowing javascript. Please enable. We not only carry a wide range of performance minded transmission parts for your car, but we also provide the best customer service; before and after the sale. And by having access to our ebooks online or by storing it on your computer, you have convenient answers with Ford C6 Rebuild Manual. To get started finding Ford C6 Rebuild Manual, you are right to find our website which has a comprehensive collection of manuals listed. Our library is the biggest of these that have literally hundreds of thousands of different products represented. I get my most wanted eBook Many thanks If there is a survey it only takes 5 minutes, try any survey which works for you. I was wondering what it would take to tackle this myself other than the tools to do so. E-Bay Florida seller. I got my C-6 book off of E-Bay also, (plenty of manuals there as well as disc versions).I will hunt for the haynes one. Lotta good stuff there.My 1970 Ford shop manuals cover it quite well though, however you have to keep flipping back and forth through the pages. But good diagrams. http://fugentechnik-koepple.com/images/car-lift-manuals.pdf

The ATSG seems to be a partial reprint of the same information and diagrams. And I don't know about the Haynes.And if you possibly can, test the pressures from the pump before you remove the trans. It will tell you a lot about where you need to be looking inside for damages.All the other gears run below 200psi so you could just skip reverse and test the Drive pressures.Although a transmission adapter for an engine hoist would be darn nice. For the rest of the work it is standard sockets, wrenches and a couple of screwdrivers (for removing retaining rings). You will also need a torque wrench for the band adjustment. It is only torqued to 10 ft lbs (to convert to in lbs multiply by 12. I would suggest an inch pound torque wrench as you also need to torque the valve body bolts (20-40 inch pounds) to keep from warping the assy and causing the valve spools to bind.The gears have little stamped in marks and those face the front of the trans on reassembly.And be extra sure the torque converter is seated into the pump before you slide the works under the vehicle because the pump is brittle and will break or crack if the torque converter is not fully seated and you attempt to install the trans and use the bellhousing bolts to pull it up.I was wondering if the typical C6 rebuild kits had the pump with it. I would just as soon replace about everything to start with to make sure it is right. I was wondering if the typical C6 rebuild kits had the pump with it. I would just as soon replace about everything to start with to make sure it is right. I was thinking about getting the 5 volumes of the 70 ford pickup manuals.Usually the hard parts are extra. Bulkparts.com I think is the place to go for kits and parts (I may have gotten that name wrong).It has the trans overhaul information.

I'd recommend reading it through twice or so, so you can later recall that something was mentioned elsewhere that you might need to take care of before you start putting all the pieces back together for the final assembly.I have done a few though, and I still wind up with problems now and then. (Have one at this very moment and it's with my C6.I have torn down and rebuilt a lot worse transmissions. It was designed to replace a generation of heavy and outdated BorgWarner MX and FX iron-case transmissions used behind Ford big-block and Y-Block V-8s. The C6 is on a par with GM’s Turbo- Hydramatic 400 and Chrysler’s 727 Torqueflite transmissions. It is a heavyduty 3-speed automatic transmission designed primarily for high-power V-8 engines and employs a conventional, non-locking torque converter. The C6 differs in its size and having a larger case—where bellhousing and main case are one integral casting. This means you are faced with choosing between at least four basic types of C6 bellhousing patterns. Here’s what you can expect to find and how to differentiate between them: Instead of a low-reverse drum as in the C4, you instead have a low-reverse clutch package tied to the case, which performs the same function in a C6. This means the C6 is equipped with one band and servo instead of two. For special driving conditions on snow and ice, the small dot (off detent) starts you out in second gear, with upshift into final drive once you get going. For the first-year the C6 was a standalone unit, meaning the valve body was Dual-Range for that year only. For slippery conditions, you start out in “2” or second gear to get going. To get an upshift into final drive, you must move the shifter into “D” or Drive. The C6 remained in production long after it was dropped from Ford passenger cars and trucks because it remained popular with companies that needed it for heavy-equipment applications.

There’s simply too much weight and parasitic drag going on here to be used behind the lower-displacement V-8s. Venting comes from a mushroom vent on top of the case. Don’t get this one confused with the C6 for Diesel engines, which is the same but with a cutout at the bottom of the bellhousing for torque converter access. Some 385-series and M-series C6s are finned and others are not. Fins add strength and some degree of cooling capacity because they radiate heat. Function begins with the front pump, a simple gear pump that provides hydraulic pressure for operation and lubrication for moving parts. The system is protected with drain-back and pressure-relief valves. The drain-back valve keeps the torque converter full after shutdown. A pressure-relief valve prevents overpressure and catastrophic failure. You get better load distribution and torque multiplication through Simpson planetaries and a ring gear around a sun gear. And this is where you are in first and second gear. The C6’s input shaft is splined into the forward clutch. In neutral, the forward clutch turns with the input shaft and torque converter turbine. With all of its clutches and steels, the forward clutch transfers power to the ring gear, which is mated to the forward planet carrier. Ford C6 castings are identified by Ford casting numbers like this one—D5UP- 7006-AA—on a mid-1970s main case. Expect to see Ford casting and part numbers on all castings including: tailshaft housings, clutch pistons, ring gear hubs, governors, and more. This makes these items easier to identify, but it isn’t a perfect system. The year noted isn’t always when the part was cast. This number is only the last engineering change, so expect to see a 1977 that was actually cast in 1979 as one example. And because the valve body is in two halves, expect to see different casting number years on each half, depending upon engineering changes. When the transmission is in first or second gear, the forward planet is always in motion. {-Variable.fc_1_url-

The reverse-high clutch rides on the pump stator. It is also mated to the forward clutch. When you apply the reversehigh clutch, it engages the forward clutch. The reverse-high clutch is linked to the input shell, which is connected to the sun gear. As power flows to the sun gear, it travels to the low-reverse or rear planet carrier to the low-reverse ring gear, which is splined to the output shaft. The C6 differs in where the power travels at this point. Instead of a low-reverse band and clutch drum, you have a low-reverse clutch locked into the transmission case. When you apply the intermediate servo and band to the forward clutch cylinder, power is channeled through the forward planet, which becomes second gear during the 1-2 upshift. The sun gear is splined into the lowreverse (rear) planet, which again reverses rotation to the output shaft. This gives you a gear reduction of 2.46:1 (2.46 revolutions to every 1 revolution of the output shaft). The forward planet rotates around the sun gear, which provides support at this point. This drives the forward ring gear, which drives the output shaft in the same direction at a ratio of 1.46:1. With the reversehigh and forward clutches applied, both input and output shafts are connected and the entire package rotates at the same speed for a 1.00:1 ratio. When this happens, the reverse-high clutch is applied to get the input shaft tied to the sun gear. Because the reverse planet is held still, this causes the sun gear to be driven in the opposite direction as the input shaft. This turns the the ring gear, which is tied to the output shaft, at a ratio of 2.175:1. Pump pressure, also known as line or control pressure, has to be controlled for proper and safe operation. Fluid flow begins at the pump cavity and flows into the torque converter. This is why it is important to have fluid in the converter during installation. Fluid in the converter primes the system and gets fluid moving from the sump to the pump to the converter.

It’s a momentum thing. The drain-back valve’s job is to keep fluid in the torque converter after shutdown. It unseats at 5 psi during engine start and allows fluid flow. The converter pressure-relief valve, which vents to the sump during overpressure (90 psi), is next in line. The main regulator valve is next, which regulates control pressure. The governor has two valves that work hand in hand. The primary valve starts to work when vehicle speed reaches 10 mph. This keeps the governor from going to work below this speed. Once the primary governor opens, allowing fluid pressure to pass, the secondary valve comes on line as a means of controlling the shift point based on vehicle speed. As vehicle speed increases, centrifugal force causes the valve pistons to override spring pressure and the valves open one at a time with corresponding speed. Kickdown linkage is for wide-openthrottle operation. As with the C4, the C6’s vacuum modulator ties manifold vacuum to transmission control pressure. The greater the intake manifold vacuum, the lower the control pressure for a sooner, softer upshift. When we have low intake-manifold vacuum at wideopen throttle, the throttle valve helps increase control pressure for a firm upshift, which is what you want at wide-open throttle. You’ve got to get this right or face slippage and transmission failure. To adjust the throttle valve properly, you’ve got to know control pressure, which involves a pressure gauge at the control pressure port just above the manual shift and neutral safety switch. Transmission sump temperature should be at a hot idle. Cold transmission fluid gives you an erroneous pressure reading on the high side because the fluid is denser when cold. The gauge pressure range needs to be 0 to 400 psi. Does the throttle valve work properly. Is there vacuum leakage. This is checked with the throttle valve removed using a vacuum pump or intake manifold vacuum from an operating engine at idle.

There should also be diaphragm and rod movement at 18 to 22 inches of vacuum. At higher elevations, your engine may struggle to maintain 18 inches at idle. Anything lower than 18 inches of vacuum indicates engine health problems that must be corrected or you have a really lumpy camshaft profile. If you have at least 18 inches of vacuum and the selector is in any forward gear, you should see 40 to 61 pounds of line pressure. In reverse, you want 60 to 93 pounds of line pressure. At low vacuum, expect to see 154 to 180 pounds of line pressure in any forward gear. In reverse at low vacuum, expect to see 234 to 275 pounds of line pressure. When line pressure is too high, shifts become harsh. If line pressure is too low, shifts become soft (slippage) and that’s when you do damage with burned clutches and bands. To increase control pressure, throttle valve adjustment needs to be turned clockwise. To reduce line pressure—adjustment is counterclockwise. Check line pressure at idle, at 10 inches, and then at 3 inches of manifold vacuum to determine if any further adjustment needs to be made. Never base your adjustments on shift-feel alone; that isn’t what line pressure is all about. Always use a pressure gauge and follow Ford’s guidelines to the letter. But you must be careful to properly match servo covers, pistons, and apply levers. This requires thorough examination of the Ford Master Parts Catalog if you want to be absolutely certain of the intermediate servo pieces you need for your C6. The transmission professionals I’ve consulted with all agree on the R servo or an equivalent aftermarket billet replacement. Where it can get tricky is the variety of intermediate servo apply levers. Three ratios are available: 1.85:1 (E-ratio), 2.30:1 (F-ratio), and 2.82:1 (FF-ratio). And the R servo works well with any of the stock apply levers I’ve seen in a variety of builds. In other words, the R servo is a no-brainer because racers have been using it for decades with great success. The R servo arrived for the C6 with the 428 Cobra Jet engine in 1968 and is a proven performer. There are six servo-apply-lever ratios to be aware of, and you must be very careful of which ones you use with corresponding servo covers and pistons. Broader Performance advises against the use of the F 2.30:1-ratio apply lever and R servo because shifts become too aggressive and can damage your C6. The higher the servo-apply-lever ratio, the greater the apply force. These letter codes can be found cast into each apply lever. Inspect the pump cavity and gears for abnormal wear patterns and scoring. Any excessive wear patterns call for pump replacement. TCI Automotive has provided Tom’s Transmissions with a remanufactured front pump assembly ready for installation, although I suggest you never install a component right out of the box without close inspection. And then fill the pump cavity with assembly lube for a good start-up. The first-year Green Dot valve body is discouraged unless you’re restoring a stocker and originality is important to you. During the 1970s, the manual valve went from an internal detent to an external detent with a case-mounted detent roller and band. This is something to be mindful of as you amass parts for your C6. Make sure your valve body and transmission case match. If you have the external detent mounted on the case, you want a free-sliding manual valve. If there’s no external detent, you want the valve body with an internal detent with a ratcheting manual valve. For example, you wouldn’t want a C6 valve body for a Diesel application for your 390 or 428 because shift programming and overall operation is quite different due to different pressures and calibrations. Diesels call for an extremely firm shift program for a more solid transfer of torque. Broader Performance goes to extreme detail with its blueprinted valve bodies, offering you everything from a stock auto-shift valve body, manual and reverse-pattern, to pro tree. These valve bodies are machined to provide a perfect mating surface. Then, they’re ultrasonic cleaned before assembly to ensure all debris is removed. Each C6 valve body is assembled and calibrated to your application. Read casting numbers and date codes, then, check the Ford Master Parts Catalog to determine origin. This transmission was designed and produced to be Ford-tough like no other automatic had been to date. This means the C6 takes a pounding with stock components and red street frictions and comes back for more. That’s the good news, and there isn’t much bad. This is an extremely rugged transmission as it came from Ford. For your street build, few modifications are necessary to achieve durability and performance. There’s also the excessive weight of those tough internals. Figure on losing 50 to 60 hp just trying to turn a stock C6 transmission, which is why the C4 became such a popular dragracing transmission. But you didn’t read this chapter to learn the C6’s disadvantages—you want to know how to build one. All racers have their C6 tricks, and I touch on a few of them here.In fact, the E4OD utilizes extreme-duty pieces that work well in your C6 build once you know what you’re doing. The E4OD transmission isn’t much more than a C6 with overdrive, a fresh case, and low-friction components inside. The Low-Drag Planetary gear set offers the durability and mechanical advantage of six-pinion performance instead of three each as you find in the C6. Brian Fotrune of Tom’s Transmission is going to build a vintage C6 transmission designed for old-fashioned big-block power yet with engineering refinements that have come since the mid 1970s, including a 2.72:1 first and a 1.54:1 second gear. Although this gearing is engineered for the Modular V-8 and V-10 engines with their different torque curves, it works quite well in drag racing because vintage big-blocks offer you the acceleration advantage. Take note of what type of seal is on each component during disassembly to ensure the same type of seal goes back on. You may find transmission failure from time to time where seals were improperly installed or wrong seals were used. When you install clutch pistons, do it gently and carefully to prevent seal damage, which is one of the leading causes of transmission failure. The forward clutch hub, borrowed from the E4OD parts bin, is different than the C6’s and arrives as a part of the TCI kit. Torrington bearings throughout greatly reduce frictional issues. We have five clutch frictions as it is, which is satisfactory, and plenty for the street. However, I’ve never seen steels come out of a box dressed, but instead as raw steel. Clutch drums should be dressed with 400- to 600-grit paper because traction here is critical to better upshifts. The wider you can spec your band width, the better. I cannot overstress the importance of checking clutch clearances followed by an air-check on each. Unseen hairline cracks can cause the Belleville spring to break during that first road test. I am often inclined to suggest a new Belleville spring with every transmission build because this piece gets stressed to where cyclic fatigue takes its toll. It’s the minute things you cannot see (ragged edges and nicks) at first glance that can cause transmission failure; seals get damaged by these irregularities during installation or start-up. Here’s what’s on the bench at Tom’s Transmissions from TCI Automotive: Because the C6 has a history of popping into reverse gear without advanced notice, you want to double-check the detent and make sure it is solid and secure. This is a critical safety item; so pay very close attention to detail here. Lubricate clutch-piston seals with assembly lube and roll them into place. Outer seal goes on the piston and inner seal goes inside the clutch drum. Use great care, walking each seal carefully into place using a seal manipulation tool (right). It is very easy to damage the seals. This spring returns the piston to rest when hydraulic pressure stops. Some transmission professionals suggest deleting the wavy washer and adding a friction. Not everyone agrees on this one. Because there are already five clutch frictions here, this modification isn’t necessary. This particular forward clutch gets five frictions and four steels. The close-up on the right shows how clutch frictions are internally driven. Clearances are determined by snap-ring thickness. There are three selective snap-ring thicknesses for setting forward clutch clearances:.065 to.069,.074 to.078, and.083 to.087 inch. With pressure applied, forward clutch looks like this (right) with clutches compressed and Belleville spring distorted. Note: number-3 and -4 thrusts have both been lubed and installed mid-clutch. There’s also an inner seal, which is installed inside the reverse-high clutch drum. Although transmission assembly lube is used here, you can also use Vaseline for seal lubrication. You can use a clutch spring compressor (shown) or C-clamps for spring compression and snap-ring installation. The number of springs depends on application. Thickness determines clutch clearances though adjustment is determined by selective snap-ring thickness. This one gets five clutches. This is the number-2 thrust washer. Recommended clutch clearances are.022 to.036 inch. Selective snap-ring thicknesses to adjust clearance are.065 to.069,.074 to.078, and.083 to.087 inch. On the left is a C6 forward clutch hub. On the right, a E4OD forward clutch hub, which enables us to use TCI’s Low Gear Planetary gear set. Move thrust washer over the E4OD hub. This is one of few spots that doesn’t have a Torrington bearing. This involves working the forward clutch back and forth until it completely seats in the reverse-high clutch drum. Both assemblies should be completely flush if properly seated. This is a low-friction Torrington bearing. Pay close attention to how the hub feels and confirm it has seated. On the right is a C6 three-pinion forward planet carrier. On the left is TCI’s six-pinion forward planet, which offers durability plus 2.72:1 first gear and 1.54:1 second gear for crisp acceleration. Low-friction Torrington bearings reduce internal friction by a wide margin. This subassembly is also unique to the TCI Low Gear Planetary gearset for the C6. On the right is a factory three-pinion example. Be careful with some applications, which have a lip seal that must be installed with the lip toward the pressure source. Install a lip seal backward, and you do not contain the pressure. Your first clue is soft or no engagement. Keep in mind what direction the pressure is coming from. When secure, there are 24 clutch-piston return springs to install. This gets very tricky if you don’t have a spring compressor. You have to rent or borrow one. Make sure to lubricate all surfaces. There should only be one-way rotation. These clutch frictions are splined into the low-reverse clutch hub. You want freedom of piston (valve) movement and proper spring pressures. Check for rattle. All passages should be clear. There is no gasket or seal, only perfectly machined surfaces. Carefully torque governor fasteners to 80 to 120 in-lbs. Never go on feel because overtightening means distortion and valve malfunction. Any scoring is unacceptable and must be machined out or replaced. Remember, there’s a ball that works as a Woodruff key to the spline output shaft and governor. If you forget this ball, your C6’s governor will not work. This weak spot for C6 transmissions must be closely inspected. Check for solid, secure operation because this is a safety item. Install the gear in the governor distributor sleeve. Torque the bolts 12 to 20 ft-lbs. If the output shaft is hard to turn, check sealing rings, contact surfaces, and governor sleeve for any irregularities. Never force the shaft.